Vlorë — The First Capital of Albania

There’s a special charm to the name Vlorë—a hint of sea breeze, good coffee, and lush greenery. And indeed, the Albanian city of Vlorë struck us as exceptionally green, in some parts almost hidden under layers of trees and plants. We stopped here “just for a day,” trying to see as much as possible in a short amount of time.

Locals take great care of their city—every young tree is neatly supported and protected. One of the main streets connecting key landmarks with the promenade was undergoing large-scale reconstruction while we visited. The city was reinforcing the asphalt foundation and renovating the facades of nearby buildings. We could observe it only through metal fencing.

Our route soon led us to Vlorë’s pride—the Independence Monument.

This is where Albania’s independence was first proclaimed in 1912, making Vlorë the very first capital of the country. Just like Kharkiv in Ukraine, it proudly carries the title of “First Capital.”

The monument is treated with real reverence—special staff members maintain the area around it. Only a short walk away you can also see fragments of ancient fortress walls. Vlorë is an extremely old city; 2,500 years ago it was known as the ancient port of Aulona and served as an important stronghold on the shores of both the Ionian and Adriatic Seas. These two seas meet right by Vlorë, attracting travelers eager to experience both at once.

As always, we couldn’t resist photographing local art. Vlorë’s murals—kind, romantic, and full of personality—instantly won us over.

Another curiosity for tourists in Albania are the famous bunkers (DOTs). They appear even in tourist brochures. Several decades ago Albania lived in near-complete isolation, and the government ordered the construction of hundreds of thousands of bunkers to protect against potential enemies. Families were expected to shelter inside and, if necessary, defend themselves through the firing slits. The bunker program consumed almost the entire national budget, which meant drastic restrictions on everyday life: residents were forbidden from owning household appliances, buying imported clothes, and women were even banned from using cosmetics.

In total, about 700,000 bunkers were built, especially along borders and the coastline. We found several right in the center of Vlorë—three concrete “domes” grouped together near a vocational school.

After the regime changed—and no invasion ever occurred—the bunkers found new life. Today they serve as storage rooms, animal shelters, and in some cases have been transformed into quirky tourist hostels.

Among the city’s monuments, the statue of Ismail Qemali—the first head of the Albanian state and a national hero—stands out prominently.

Reaching the promenade, we immediately noticed how tidy and modern it looked. From the pier, a ferry departs for Italy, heading to the town of Brindisi, located on the “heel” of the Italian peninsula near Lecce.

One of the promenade’s highlights is its innovative solar-powered benches. They provide free Wi-Fi, and if you lift a small black cover on the side, you’ll find a USB port for charging your devices. Dubai’s famous Wi-Fi palms suddenly don’t feel so far ahead of Vlorë.

The entire seafront feels freshly renewed, lined with evenly spaced palm trees. It’s clear the city is investing heavily in tourism, preparing to welcome growing crowds of visitors.

Vlorë’s beach surprised us—specifically, its dark sand, reminiscent of cement in color. When the sea gets rough, the water turns a bit murky. If you prefer crystal-clear blue water, head to the pebble beach in the village of Radhimë, just 8 km south of Vlorë. The water there is unbelievably transparent.

While exploring the center, we stumbled upon the municipal theater, photographed a fountain with four spheres, and even discovered the local postal K.I.T., which we couldn’t resist comparing to Kyiv’s version on Instagram—let’s just say Vlorë lost this round.

No visit to Vlorë is complete without seeing the famous Muradie Mosque, built in 1542. This small but stunning mosque has stood here for nearly five centuries. In its aesthetics, it slightly resembles Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, though, of course, on a much smaller scale.

Its location, however, is quite unusual—the mosque sits on a traffic “island,” surrounded by busy roads. Reaching it is a true test of courage and patience, as cars honk nonstop, reminding you who rules the streets. After a couple of attempts, we gave up on approaching it closely.

In local parks, Albanian pensioners play cards and dominoes, perhaps remembering the turbulent year of 1997. Back then, nationwide financial pyramids collapsed, wiping out $2 billion in savings. Protests erupted across Albania, leading to riots, armed clashes (including in Vlorë), and looting of weapon warehouses. The chaos ended only after the UN Security Council authorized an Italian-led peacekeeping mission. Over 1,500 people were killed, and another 3,500 injured.

Many elders also remember gjakmarrja—the medieval tradition of blood feuds, where any male family member can be targeted by a rival clan. Those living under threat never leave their homes, as the code forbids killing inside the house. Women become the primary providers. More than 600 families in Albania still live under these conditions. UNICEF even attempted remote schooling programs for affected children, but only 200 out of 2,000 students enrolled. Albania is a beautiful yet complex country, striving to break free into the 21st century.

Whatever you do, never miss the sunsets on the Albanian coast. The sun, sea, and mountains blend together, creating breathtaking scenes you’ll remember forever.

Visit Albania—beautiful, delicious, and full of surprises. Our first encounter with it was unforgettable. May it gift you just as many vibrant memories.

And above all—keep traveling!